Carrier Oil Profile: Rosehip Oil
Friday, April 06, 2018
Image Source: Craftology Essentials
INCI Name: Rosa moschata (Rose Hip) Seed Oil OR Rosa canina (Rose Hip) Fruit Oil
Source: Fruit
and seeds
Types:
Refined / Unrefined
Color:
Pale yellow to reddish-orange
Aroma:
Slightly nutty
Viscosity: Thin
Absorption: Fast
Comedogenic Rating: 1
Shelf Life: 6 months (if stored in cool, dry place and away
from direct sunlight)
SAP Value (for soap making): 185 - 193 (mg KOH), NaOH = 0.135 (g, oz or lb),
KOH = 0.189 (g, oz or lb)
Ideal for which skin type: oily/acne prone
Fatty Acid Profile (in %):
Linoleic Acid
|
51.2
|
Oleic Acid
|
21.3
|
Alpha Linolenic Acid
|
18
|
Palmitic Acid
|
3.8
|
Stearic Acid
|
2.2
|
Others
|
3.5
|
Table Source: https://shop.skinchakra.eu/en/Cosmetic-Lab/Plant-oils-butters-and-waxes/Rosehip-oil.html
If you
can only choose 3 oils to include in your beauty arsenal, then rosehip oil must
be included in the list. Rosehip oil is the star ingredient in several natural
anti-aging skin care products and even popular Hollywood celebrities have
nothing but praises for this amazing beauty oil.
Rosehip
oil comes from the rose hip (also known as rose haw) which is the fruit of the
rose plant that is native in southern Chile. The oil is either extracted from
the seeds or from the whole fruit using either cold-pressed
or solvent extraction methods. Cold-pressed rosehip oil is the preferred
choice of many consumers because it retains most of the oil’s potent nutrients
that are good for your skin.
Rosehip
oil can also be either refined or unrefined. Refined rosehip oil is pale yellow in color and has very faint
odor. This is in contrast to unrefined
rosehip oil which is yellow-orange to reddish-orange in color and has
earthy scent. Most people thought that pure rosehip oil should smell like rose,
but it doesn’t. It is because the oil is extracted from the seeds or fruits,
not from the rose petals.
Rosehip
oil has so many skin-loving benefits. Based on its fatty acid profile, it
contains high amount of essential fatty acids: linoleic (omega-6) and alpha linolenic
(omega-3) acids. Oils high in linoleic acid are ideal for people with oily
and/or acne-prone skin. These two essential fatty acids help regulate sebum
production and reduce skin inflammations (e.g. pimples). Also, rosehip oil is
considered as a “dry” oil because it gets absorb so fast and won’t leave any greasy
residue, perfect for oily-skin people! It also has a comedogenic rating of 1
which means that it has a very low chance of clogging your pores.
One
of the most important components of rosehip oil is beta-carotene where vitamin
A (a.k.a retinol) is derived. Aside from protecting our skin from
free-radical damages, beta-carotene has the ability to regenerate skin cells.
This is the ultimate reason why continuous use of rosehip oil can eventually
reduce the appearance of scars, stretch marks, age spots, fine lines and
wrinkles. These properties make rosehip oil an effective anti-aging ingredient
for skin care products.
Rosehip
oil is quite an expensive oil (just like argan oil)
so it’s very important that you only buy good quality cold-pressed, unrefined
variant to get the most of its skin-loving properties. If it’s for personal use
only, try to buy the smallest size you can find because rosehip oil gets rancid
very quickly (shelf life is approximately 6 months). In order to extend its
shelf life a little bit, you may add 0.5% vitamin E to your rosehip oil and
store it in the refrigerator.
Finally,
if you want to formulate a skin care product using unrefined rosehip oil, then
make sure that you only use it at 5 – 10% in a formulation. Due to its high
beta-carotene content, it has dark yellow to orange color that might stain your
skin (e.g. like having a fake tan) when added in large amount in a product
formulation.
References:
Saponification
Chart. Retrieved from https://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/resources/sapon.asp
Rose
Hip Oil. Retrieved from https://www.aromaweb.com/vegetableoils/rosehipoil.asp
Why
Linoleic Acid and Rosehip Oil Might Fix your Skin. https://labmuffin.com/why-linoleic-acid-and-rosehip-oil-might-fix-your-skin/
P.S.
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